Archive for December, 2008

How to Reduce Barking

December 31, 2008

If you have a dog that barks frequently, you may have heard complaints from your neighbors about the noise. Barking is a normal behavior in dogs and the only way dogs can communicate, but barking isn’t always so easy for human ears to handle. A bark can mean “I’m glad to see you” or “Stranger at the door” or “Why are you leaving me alone in this boring backyard?” While your dog can be trained to bark less, your goal should not be to completely stop barking, but to reduce and redirect it.

Before you begin training your dog, you need to find out what makes it bark. If it’s occurring while you are not at home, set up a video camera in the room where the dog spends the most time. Ask your neighbors what they’ve observed. Pretend you’re leaving for work, but sneak back and observe your dog, without it knowing you’re right outside. You’ll probably find that your dog barks for one of three reasons: It’s protecting his territory, it’s bored and lonely, or it’s afraid of something.

4784-rocket-blogMine, Mine, Mine!: Territorial Barking

If your dog is barking to protect his territory, the barking usually occurs when the dog sees strangers that he considers to be intruders. These intruders may be people walking past your house, the mail carrier and delivery people, or animals it can see in other yards. If your dog is a territorial barker, its demeanor will appear threatening during the barking. Its ears will be up and forward and its tail will be held high.

Discouraging territorial barking can be accomplished in several ways:

Spayed and neutered dogs are less territorial than intact dogs, so if your dog hasn’t been spayed or neutered, this should be your first step. Spaying and neutering alone won’t stop the problem if your dog has already gotten into the habit of barking and training will still be necessary after surgery.

If you want to discourage barking, you need to desensitize your dog to the things that stimulate the barking. You need to teach your dog that people who just happen to be walking by aren’t necessarily intruders. You can ask a friend to walk by your yard, with you in the yard. As soon your dog begins barking, give a “sit” or “down” command. When he complies and is quiet, give him a treat. Continue to reward good behavior as the person walks closer. It will take time for your dog to learn not to bark when a stranger walks down the street, and may take several training sessions.

You may also want to teach your dog how to obey the “quiet” command. When your dog starts to bark at a passerby, let it bark two or three times, then say (don’t yell) “quiet” and shake a can filled with marbles or pennies or spray your dog with a water bottle. (It’s not necessary to drench the dog. You are just trying to get the dog’s attention, so one quick squirt is all you need.) Reward your dog when it is able to remain quiet. Again, this is another exercise will take time to master.

Don’t Leave Me

Dogs are social animals and need and want the companionship of people. Lonely and bored dogs usually bark because they are left alone for long periods of time with no human contact. These dogs also bark if there is nothing for them to do: no interaction with other dogs, no toys, etc. Very active dogs, such as sporting and herding breeds, aren’t happy unless they have a job to do, and aren’t the best type of dog to have if you are work all day. Puppies and dogs under three are very likely to bark because of isolation.

Discouraging this type of barking by:

Spend more time with your dog. Don’t leave it alone outside for long periods of time. If you can’t supervise your dog outside, don’t leave it outside. If you leave your dog outside because it isn’t housetrained or is destructive, now is the time to work on these things.

Teach your dog to fetch a ball and play with it every day. Enroll in an obedience class with your dog or teach it a few commands on your own. Walk your dog every day, for the exercise and the interaction.

Try to come home for lunch a few times a week if you work close enough to home. If not, ask a friend to stop by periodically. If it seems that the problem is going to take a while to correct and the neighbors are complaining, investigate a doggy daycare program.

Look at your dog. If it is fearful, its tail will be low and its ear will be held back. Barking may occur when there are loud noises, such as thunderstorms, fireworks, firecrackers, backfiring cars, construction equipment, train whistles, crying children, etc. Correcting these problems isn’t just important because of the barking; fearful animals have been known to try to flee loud noises and in their panic can find extraordinary strength to escape even the most secure yards.

Once you’ve identified what’s scaring your dog, desensitize your pet to scary noises. If thunder scares it, buy a recording of thunder and start by playing it at low levels and for very short periods of time. Praise your dog and reward it with a treat each time you turn off the recording. Over time, play the recording for longer periods of time and at louder levels until your dog can tolerate a real storm. In some cases, anti-anxiety medication may be needed in addition to a desensitization program.

Make Your Home Stress Free

If outside noise scares your dog while you’re away, find the quietest place in the house, perhaps the basement, and put it there while you are away. Play a television or radio to mask any scary sounds. If something outside scares your dog, closes the curtains or block off its view as well as you can.

Go Grocery Shopping and Help the Animals!

December 29, 2008

You can help the Society by registering your grocery store customer loyalty cards with www.escrip.com or by filling out a form at your store’s customer service desk. The Cash Back Program contributes up to three percent of your purchases to the Society and it doesn’t cost you anything extra! You’ll need our group name and ID when you fill out the form:

Group name: Woman’s Humane Society, Inc.

Group ID number: 150627554

Participating stores include: Adams, Carrs, Dominicks, Draeger’s, Genuardi’s, Gerritys Pavilions, PW Markets, Safeway/Spartan/Forest Hills/Vons. You can participate through eScrip Community Cards at: Catalonos, Cox IGA, Food 4 Less, Hardings, Hows, KV Mart, Piggily Wiggily, Schnucks, Spencers Super A Foods, Tresierras, Wayfield and Yokes.

Haiku Friday

December 26, 2008

Chalupa

by Paula Berry

Chalupa is a

fat chinchilla with issues…

Pees on our kitten.

This haiku originally appeared in the Fall 2006 issue of the Society’s newsletter, the Guardian.

Coming Soon:  A new haiku contest!  Details in the next issue of the Guardian.

Litter Training Your Rabbit

December 24, 2008

Rabbits can be trained to use a litter box just as cats can. While the process may take some time, in the end you’ll have a pet that can spend time outside of its cage without leaving a trail of rabbit pellets behind.

If you want to train your rabbit, start by choosing the right type of litter box. The litter box should be big enough to allow your rabbit to fit comfortably with a little extra space. If you have a dwarf rabbit and the litter boxes sold at stores seem too high for your rabbit to navigate, you might want to try a cake pan or other low-walled pan or container.

Paper-based litter pellets, sawdust pellets or aspen bark are all safe choices for litter. Cedar and wood pine shavings can be toxic to rabbits. Clay and clumping litters can stick to your rabbit’s nosed, and if eaten, can cause an impaction in the rabbit’s digestive system.

The ideal time to litter train a rabbit is when it is young, but older rabbits, if given enough time, can learn how to use the litter box too. Place the litter box in one area of your rabbit’s cage. If you notice a particular corner where the rabbit is eliminating, put the box in that corner. If your rabbit decides to switch corners and ignore the box, move the box to the new corner.

When the rabbit begins to use the litter box often, allow it out of its cage, but limit it to one room. Put a litter box in one corner of the room. Stay with the rabbit and if you see that it is need of the litter box, either guide it in the direction of the box or pick it up and put it in the litter box if your rabbit doesn’t mind being handled. (You’ll know you’re your rabbit needs to urinate or defecate if you see it back up or lift its tail. You may want to say “No” if you notice your rabbit doing this.) Give your rabbit a treat when it uses the box.

Don’t punish your rabbit if it forgets to use the litter box. Accidents will happen during training and hitting your rabbit will not encourage it use the litter box. In fact, it will not connect being hit with not using the litter box. Positive reinforcement (treats) is the best way to encourage the use of the litter box. Put the treats or a little bit of hay in the box as a way to entice your rabbit into the box. If the rabbit does have an accident, clean it up, use a pet odor remover and continue working on training.

After your rabbit begins using the litter box on a consistent basis, you can give it access to other areas of your house, adding additional litter boxes as needed. Don’t forget to clean the litter boxes several times each week, replacing the litter as necessary. Dirty litter can make your rabbit avoid the box.

Assistant Director of Development Shawn has litter trained several rabbit and offers these suggestions:

- Corner litter pans and those for cats that are sold at local pet supply houses may not work for your rabbit – most are too small for all rabbits but the tiniest of dwarf breeds. Try searching the internet for a rabbit specialty supply. They have the best rabbit-specific products – or shop on the internet and ask your local pet supply to special order items for you.

- Rabbits sometimes like to decorate their own homes, thereby necessitating the securing of the litter pan in the appropriate corner. Until the rabbit gets used to the litter pan, she may move it out of the corner and eliminate behind it. Some rabbit pans have locks to secure them to the cage, others can be adapted by piercing holes in the sides and securing them to the cage with wire – not string or twine.

- If your rabbit is not spayed or neutered, they may spray urine around their chosen corner – even up and over the side of the nice rabbit potty. Better to spay or neuter, for a whole host of reasons.

- Even the best litter trained rabbit may leave some pellets around once in a while, this does not mean they aren’t litter trained. Rabbits use their pellet droppings to communicate with each other, but in a different way than urine. These can simply be swept up with a dust pan and brush or picked up with a bit of tissue or paper towel. It’s the urine you really need to be concerned about.

- Begin clicker training with your bunny – then you can communicate your approval of their use of the litter box in a way they truly understand. There are wonderful books on clicker training available for just about every species we keep as companion animals.

How to Greet a Dog on a Leash

December 22, 2008

No one wants a stranger to run up to them, ruffle their hair and scream, “Aren’t you cute!”  It would freak you out!  But that is what people do when they see a dog on a leash. The dog freaks out and may bite or tremble from fear.

Here is the correct way to approach a dog on a leash. Stand about four feet away (six feet is better). Greet the person and ask permission to pet the dog. If the person says no, accept the answer and leave. If the person agrees, call the dog to you. This gives the dog the feeling that it has some form of control over its surroundings. If the dog can’t approach you, do not walk directly toward the front of the dog, which can be perceived as confrontational behavior to a dog. Instead, walk on angle toward the dog’s side.

Place your fisted hand at the level of the dog’s nose and let the dog sniff the back of your hand. Never bring your hand over the top of a dog’s head. The dog may be hand shy and think you’re going to strike it. Or the dog may be dominant and may attempt to discipline you with a bite or a snap for your dominant approach. You may now gently scratch the dog under the chin or pet the back of the neck.

Important Note:  Only an adult should ask permission to pet a dog if the person is a stranger.  If a parent is with the child and can control the child’s movements, then the child may ask permission. This should only take place if the dog’s owner is in complete control of the dog. 

Source: Fall 2008 Guardian

Haiku Friday

December 19, 2008

Casey Cat

By Deborah Chassman

Casey’s on my lap.

His fifteen pounds numb my legs,

But I do not move.

This haiku was originally published in the Fall 2006 edition of the Society’s newsletter, the Guardian.

Thinking of Giving an Animal as a Christmas Gift?

December 15, 2008

Finding a  new puppy under the Christmas tree is a  classic Christmas moment, judging by what we see on TV. The reality is that a certain percentage of  those special Christmas “gifts” were not really wanted by the recipient and  find their way to animal shelters after the holidays.  Animals are more likely to find a lifelong home if they are truly wanted and are chosen by the recipient.  Even if a new pet is wanted, the busy Christmas season is not the best time to introduce an animal to your family. It’s much better to wait for a quieter time of the year when you can maintain a consistent schedule with your new pet.

If you would like to make it possible for a friend or family member to adopt a new pet, why not give a cute stuffed animal holding a Women’s Humane Society gift certificate instead?  A gift certificate allows the recipient to choose the right pet for him or her at the most convenient time.

The Society will not be adopting any animals from now until December 25. You can still come and look at the animals, but adoptions will not resume until December 26. If you are planning on visiting on December 26, please arrive early, as it will be a busy day.

Haiku Friday

December 12, 2008

Little Hunter

By Barbara Alterman

Kitten stalks his prey,

Then pounces with great delight.

Toy mouse has no chance.

This haiku was originally published in the Fall 2006 issue of the Society’s newsletter, The Guardian.

Meet Anna

December 10, 2008

4259-anna-blog

Anna is a friendly, playful two-year-old given up because her family moved and couldn’t take her with them. She’s been with us for a month now and is ready to exchange her cage in the cat room for a nice comfortable spot in the sun in a new home. Anna has already been spayed, which will make the adoption process a little quicker.

Stop by and see Anna (tag number 4259) on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 11 a.m. – 4. pm. or on Wednesday from 1 p.m. – 7 p.m. Visit our website for more details on adoptions. The Society will be closed for adoptions from December 16 – 25.

Texas State Police Break Up Dogfighting Ring

December 8, 2008

A major dogfighting ring was recently broken up in Texas, according to yesterday’s New York Times (Dogfighting Subculture Is Taking Hold in Texas). The 17-month investigation by the Texas State Police resulted in the indictments of 55 people and the seizure of 187 pit bulls.

During the course of the investigation, police found that dogfighting is growing in Texas and is even more widespread than investigators had thought. The dogfighting ring that police broke up had ties to dogfighting groups in other states and Mexico.

While participating in dogfighting is a felony in Texas, watching a fight and possessing a dog used for fighting are only misdemeanors. Here in Pennsylvania, all three are felonies, thanks to the work of a number of animal organizations, including the Women’s Humane Society, that successfully lobbied Pennsylvania legislature to make any participation in dogfighting a felony offense.

Curious about your state’s penalties for dogfighting? Take a look at this list on the Humane Society of the United States website.